Racing is about managing friction. Friction is cause by turning, accelerating or decelerating. Your biggest challenge will be keeping your tires from slipping. The better your line, and the
smoother you transition from fast to slow, and left to right the faster your lap will be. The racing wheel is your ally in this. The Racing wheel allows for very precise turns and provides the tactical feed back you need to feel when you are starting to slip. The pedals give you the control you need to ease out the throttle as you leave a curve letting you maximize acceleration with out having wheel spin which robs you of grip in the turns. The pedals also let you run with out ABS and still break with out locking up the wheels.
Spend your money on weight reduction, Tires, Wide Rims, better tire compounds, front air dam, and rear spoiler. You will not be as fast in the straights, but you will be much faster in the curves. You will want to pass on the outside of turns, and pick spots in the straights that limit your opponents ability to pass.
Your best Passing Strategy is immediately following the straights, draft the car ahead of you keep your speed longer than the car ahead, then use your better grip to take the corner fast on the outside.
You will prefer cars that are 50/50 weight distribution. Likely you will prefer front or all wheel drive cars. Your car should pull at least .9 g’s stock at 60mph.
Racing is about out driving your competition. You will be impossible to pass in the corners as you
take them with your nose pointed at the Apex, and your ass blocking the outside. The original controller is your friend because it lets you quickly recover from over steer, won’t fight you with force feed back every time you brush the gravel. You are going to accelerate hard and break hard so the triggers will do just fine.
Spend your money on Suspension, Horsepower that doesn’t use Turbo, and a good differential. You don’t want Turbo because you will find that when it kicks in in a drift you may lose control. You want your suspension set almost as stiff as it will go. You will want your differential to be locked most of the time so set it to lock quickly.
You will prefer cars that are are front engine and rear wheel drive. They should be front heavy.(60% or better)
Different Types of Drifting:
Clutch-based techniques (You don’t have a clutch so you can’t do these in Forza)
Clutch-kick drift – Approaching the turn, the driver holds in the clutch, increases rpm and downshifts. Driver then releases the clutch, causing a power surge that makes the back wheels lose traction. This is a basic drifting technique.
Shift-lock drift – Approaching the turn, the driver downshifts and drops the rpm to slow down the drivetrain. Driver then releases the clutch, causing the back wheels to immediately slow down and lock up so they lose traction.
E-brake drift – The driver enters the turn and pulls the emergency brake to lock the back wheels. Driver steers into the turn, and the back end swings out into a drift. This is a basic drifting technique.
Braking drift – The driver enters the turn and applies the brakes to push the car’s weight to the front wheels, causing the back wheels to rise and lose traction. Driver then uses a combination of braking and shifting to hold the drift without the back wheels locking up.
Long-slide drift – On a long straightaway approaching a turn, at high speed (up to 100 mph / 161 kph), the driver pulls the emergency brake to initiate a long drift and maintains it into the turn.
Power-over drift – The driver accelerates into and through the entire turn to make the back end swing out as the weight shifts on exit. This technique requires a lot of horsepower.
Feint drift – The driver steers the car to the outside of the turn on the approach, pushing the car’s weight to outside wheels. Driver then quickly steers back into the turn. When the car’s suspension kicks back, the weight shifts so quickly that the back end flicks out to initiate a drift.
Jump drift – Entering a turn, the driver bounces the inside rear tire over the inner curb to shift the car’s weight to the outside wheels and induce traction loss, initiating a drift.
Dynamic drift (Kansei drift) – Entering a turn at high speed, the driver suddenly releases the gas pedal to shift the weight to the front wheels, initiating a drift as the rear tires lose traction.
Swaying drift – A swaying drift is a lot like a feint drift except that it begins on a long straightaway approach to a turn. Once the car starts drifting, the driver uses steering to maintain the drift in the form of a side-to-side swaying of the car’s back end.
Dirt-drop drift – The driver drops the rear tires off the race course into the dirt. This technique helps initiate a drift, maintain speed to hold a drift through multiple turns or increase the drift angle (see the next section) during a single turn.
Muscle Car Racers:
Racing is about taming the beast. You are going to be hands down faster off the line, you will swallow the competition whole in the straights, and the speed you will lose when you “Straighten the curves” will barely have an impact, just watch for the hairpins. The Wheel has the advantage that the pedals will give you the ability to tame your acceleration, and limit the floatiness you might experience when you accidentally wobble a bit with the thumbstick, but the thumbstick will let you deal with the oversteer you are going to have in the curves that you don’t cut the middle out of. There are a lot of chicanes you are just going to point at the next straight away and drive on the gravel through.
Spend your money on Horsepower, Weight Reduction, Breaks, and bigger, wider, stickier tires. Most of your racing will be about getting up to speed, quickly, and hitting the breaks hard before turns. You are going to be the fastest and the slowest car on the track depending on if you are coming out of a turn or going in to it.
You will prefer cars with 500+ HP with Rear Wheel Drive.
Many of the Techniques of drifting will apply when you do actually have to try and make a turn.